"The humanities are academic disciplines that study the human condition, using methods that are primarily analytical, critical, or speculative, as distinguished from the mainly empirical approaches of the natural sciences." - Wikipedia
Maximum Rock N Roll - MRR Monday Photoblog
Anyone who is into punk rock is familiar with Maximum Rock N Roll. I'd like to thank Mark Murrmann who serves as photo editor (and a million other jobs) for including a few of my photos in this week's MRR Monday Photoblog. I also think you should check Mark's website out as he is an awesome photographer and does some really cool B&W work. I'm kind of fond of him as he is a Bay Area Photographer and I'm kind of partial to those guys (especially the ones who are into music). Make sure to take a look!!!
Paul Davis
After finally finishing my book I decided it would be nice to let some of the people in it be the first to know about it. More than a few years have gone by since my camera captured them live on stage. A little research was certainly in order. Looking for the whereabouts of Paul Davis I was sad to find out that he is no longer with us.
"Paul Davis who played in Bonnie Hayes and The Wild Combo and The Yanks went into a coma after complications with his elbow caused by Carpal Tunnel and he was pronounced dead on Sunday Morning Nov 10, 2007" - Ginger Coyote - Punk Globe Magazine.
Gossen Luna Pro
Finally I score a Luna Pro on Ebay! It seemed like every time I found a nice one to bid on, I got out bid at the last second by some antique dealer or collector. I think they try to buy low and sell high, you know? That's cool but I wanted one to actually use for photography!
As I've implied elsewhere, I am pretty much shooting with Pentax M Series lenses from the 1970s. The quality is just awesome. The problem is that the K10D exposure meter does not work after you take the initial reading. I always have to take the shot and then check the histogram and adjust from there. That is okay, but sometimes leads to missed opportunities. Photography is mostly about capturing a moment in time and in many cases those moments are short.
Well, my Luna Pro arrived today and it is one beautiful piece of equipment. I can see why antique dealers want them. To be honest, one of the reasons I wanted this particular meter over any other is kind of silly. Its because I like the little sun and moon symbols on the dial :-)
As I've implied elsewhere, I am pretty much shooting with Pentax M Series lenses from the 1970s. The quality is just awesome. The problem is that the K10D exposure meter does not work after you take the initial reading. I always have to take the shot and then check the histogram and adjust from there. That is okay, but sometimes leads to missed opportunities. Photography is mostly about capturing a moment in time and in many cases those moments are short.
Well, my Luna Pro arrived today and it is one beautiful piece of equipment. I can see why antique dealers want them. To be honest, one of the reasons I wanted this particular meter over any other is kind of silly. Its because I like the little sun and moon symbols on the dial :-)
Using M Series Lenses on a K10D
PENTAX: "Pentax K-mount, M-series and S (screw) mount lenses without auto-aperture control (an “A” setting on the aperture ring) can be used in Manual exposure mode using stop-down metering and manual focus. This is the exposure mode which will give accurate exposures when using these older lenses on our digital SLRs. If older lenses without an "A" setting on the aperture ring are used in Av (Aperture Priority) Mode, an exposure error may occur. "
Up until today I had a hard time believing the above statement. Whenever I use manual mode I have to do some compensation. If I use the reading the "green button" comes up with, my images will come out overexposed. I have to adjust my exposures using a histogram to guide me. I have read posts on several sites from people having similar results. If I shoot in Av mode the exposures are right on (contrary to the above statement). The problem is that when shooting in Av mode, you are shooting wide open no matter which F-stop you select.
I thought it odd that the exposures can be so far off in manual mode. A little research shows that the problem is easily resolved by changing a custom setting:
Go to Custom Settings
Up until today I had a hard time believing the above statement. Whenever I use manual mode I have to do some compensation. If I use the reading the "green button" comes up with, my images will come out overexposed. I have to adjust my exposures using a histogram to guide me. I have read posts on several sites from people having similar results. If I shoot in Av mode the exposures are right on (contrary to the above statement). The problem is that when shooting in Av mode, you are shooting wide open no matter which F-stop you select.
I thought it odd that the exposures can be so far off in manual mode. A little research shows that the problem is easily resolved by changing a custom setting:
Go to Custom Settings
Step down to Green button in Manual
Press the right arrow and select Tv Shift
Press OK
(This setting allows easy and accurate exposure metering using older lenses without an "A" setting on the aperture ring. When the Green button is pressed in Manual exposure mode, the lens "stops down", the camera's meter measures the light passing through the lens, and an appropriate shutter speed is automatically set based on that measurement).
Press the right arrow and select Tv Shift
Press OK
(This setting allows easy and accurate exposure metering using older lenses without an "A" setting on the aperture ring. When the Green button is pressed in Manual exposure mode, the lens "stops down", the camera's meter measures the light passing through the lens, and an appropriate shutter speed is automatically set based on that measurement).
By default this setting is on "Program Line." Change it to "Tv Shift" and the problem is resolved. For those of you new to this, here are all the settings you need to change:
Press the Menu button
Go to Custom Settings
Step down to Green button in TAv & M (K10D/K20D).
Step down to Green button in Manual (K200D)
Press the right arrow and select Tv Shift
Press OK
(This setting allows easy and accurate exposure metering using older lenses without an "A" setting on the aperture ring. When the Green button is pressed in Manual exposure mode, the lens "stops down", the camera's meter measures the light passing through the lens, and an appropriate shutter speed is automatically set based on that measurement).
Step down to Preview Method
Press the right arrow and select Optical Preview
Press OK
(This setting enables the camera to "stop down" the lens to a selected aperture when the On/Off button is rotated clocwise).
Step down to Using aperture ring
Press the right arrow and select Permitted
Press OK.
(This setting allows the camera to operate with older K-mount or S-mount lenses that do not have an “A” setting on the aperture ring).
If Shake Reduction is enabled when using an older lens, you will need to manually select the closest matching focal length from the Shake Reduction (K10D) or Input Focal Length (K20D/K200D) menu. Press the Menu button, step down to Shake Reduction (K10D) or Input Focal Length (K20D/K200D) then press the right arrow. Scroll left and right to select the closest match for the focal length lens you are using. Press OK, then Menu.
Go to Custom Settings
Step down to Green button in TAv & M (K10D/K20D).
Step down to Green button in Manual (K200D)
Press the right arrow and select Tv Shift
Press OK
(This setting allows easy and accurate exposure metering using older lenses without an "A" setting on the aperture ring. When the Green button is pressed in Manual exposure mode, the lens "stops down", the camera's meter measures the light passing through the lens, and an appropriate shutter speed is automatically set based on that measurement).
Step down to Preview Method
Press the right arrow and select Optical Preview
Press OK
(This setting enables the camera to "stop down" the lens to a selected aperture when the On/Off button is rotated clocwise).
Step down to Using aperture ring
Press the right arrow and select Permitted
Press OK.
(This setting allows the camera to operate with older K-mount or S-mount lenses that do not have an “A” setting on the aperture ring).
If Shake Reduction is enabled when using an older lens, you will need to manually select the closest matching focal length from the Shake Reduction (K10D) or Input Focal Length (K20D/K200D) menu. Press the Menu button, step down to Shake Reduction (K10D) or Input Focal Length (K20D/K200D) then press the right arrow. Scroll left and right to select the closest match for the focal length lens you are using. Press OK, then Menu.
SMC Pentax 200mm F4 M Series Lens
Earlier this year I spent a lot of time on Ebay trying to buy one of every SMC Pentax M Series lens I did not already have. I never finished that project as some of them rarely ever come up for sale (the 20mm for example) or the specifications of a particular lens are too close to one I already have (28mm F2.8 vs 28mm F3.5).
After buying several of them, I became enamored with the 40mm Pancake lens and never bothered using anything else for months on end. I still love that pancake lens but its time to move on! I put the SMC Pentax 200mm F4 on the camera yesterday and took a few shots in the backyard. Pretty remarkable.
The lens is fairly light and compact for a 200mm telephoto lens. Combined with the K10D's image stabilization feature, I was able to shoot some decent photos without a tripod. The flower pictured above is one such shot. Keep in mind, this is a low resolution version of the original. The original was a jpeg (not Raw). ISO 100, F4 at 1/45th of a second handheld. From what I've read, this lens is very sharp and conrasty once you start stopping down.
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